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Hakahetau Village
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Wednesday, June 11, 1997 |
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Once we were fueled up in Baie Taahuku we were ready to head to Ua Pou. We did our normal pre-departure check to ensure that the bilge was as dry as possible, the engine oil and water levels were good, everything was properly stowed down below and we had the latest weather forecast. All was in order and we headed out at 2100 Zulu. We had made arrangements to buddy boat with 'Flying Lady'. We would monitor VHF channel 68. This is the channel that most English speaking cruisers monitor in the South Pacific. |
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We started out sailing but soon had to crank up the engine. The winds decreased and we wanted to make sure we arrived near daybreak so we decided to use the engine when necessary to maintain a minimum of 4.5 knots. We also took this opportunity to make more water. Since we have a policy to not use the water maker while we are in port, our water supply was a little low. The winds eventually picked up such that we could put the boat in neutral so we could continue charging the batteries and make water but sail instead of motor sail. We settled into a nice sail to Ua Pou. Although the winds were light, we were maintaining reasonable speed and had comfortable seas. We made radio contact with 'Flying Lady' every other hour or so to make sure all was well. 'Flying Lady' was heading to the northern tip of Ua Pou and we were heading to the southern end of the island. We were going to the same anchorage but had chosen different courses. As the evening wore on we noticed squalls north of us. It looked like 'Flying Lady' was likely to be right in the middle of these squalls. They had decided to turn their radio volume down so they could get some sleep so we weren't sure of the weather they were experiencing. We, fortunately, only saw a couple of small squalls. |
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Once we got near the island, the winds and sea started to clock around. Once we reached landfall, we compared notes with 'Flying Lady' to see who had chosen the best course. We think 'Flying Lady' had made the better choice. They did not get into any of the squalls that we saw and they didn't suffer the effects of the island. The winds were more in their favor. We had decided to go to Baie de Hakahetau. We had heard a lot of good things about this bay and knew that several other boats were planning to be there. As we rounded the last point before the anchorage we realized that this bay was to be a lot more popular than we had planned. We counted more than 20 boats at anchor. We doused our sails and circled the anchorage to look for the ideal spot to drop the hook. We noticed several boats on the east side of the anchorage with bow and stern anchors. On the west side the boats were on single hooks. The west side of the anchorage was also less crowded. We decided to drop the hook on the west side. By the next morning, it became evident why the majority of the boats favored the east side of the anchorage. The bay was experiencing abnormal north westerly and the swells were very strong. |
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We saw several of the same boats at this anchorage that we had met in Baie de Taahuku in Hiva Oa. Although it was nice to see them again, the anchorage was a bit too crowded. It wasn't long until we learned of the reason for so many boats in this bay. There was a cyclone in the western part of the South Pacific that had every cruiser's attention. This cyclone was a threat to those boats that were to head to the Tuamotus. Consequently, we met more of our new family and got to know some more very special people. Each day, everyone brought down the weather faxes and then got on VHF channel 68 to discuss their interpretation of the current weather situation. The cyclone was not subsiding as rapidly as everyone had hoped. After several days of this intense weather watching, the cyclone was downgraded to a tropical storm. It wasn't long before we started to hear everyone begin planning their departure. |
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On our second day we dinghied ashore to check out the village. The dinghy landing is a concrete landing. There is no place to tie your dinghy up. You must hoist your dinghy up onto the landing. You will have a few obstacles to contend with when you get to the dinghy landing. The beach area near the dinghy landing is also the local swimming hole for the children of the village. Each afternoon they gathered and enjoyed the cool water and showed off for the cruisers. They appear to have been born with the ability to swim and snorkel. On one occasion ashore we noticed several teen-age boys diving for sea urchins. Once they caught one, they swam ashore and cleaned it immediately. They made sure that all of the children in the area got a piece of the urchin. They ate it raw, right on the spot. It appeared to be like candy to them. |
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Once we got our dinghy up onto the landing, we walked into the village. We had heard from some of the cruisers in the bay that there was a vegetable farm in the village. Since I had not had a salad in several weeks, this news was music to my ears. We had a mission to find the vegetable garden. As we walked into the village, we stopped to attempt to read some of the notices that had been posted on a bulletin board at one of the corners. While we were doing our guessing at the French words, a man asked us if he could be of help. We told him that we wanted to see his village and wanted to locate the vegetable garden. He told us where we might find the local market, the church, a sculptor and the vegetable garden. He also told us to make sure we stopped by his house again once we had seen the village. We thanked him and started our search for a salad. |
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We located the garden without difficulty. Take the first right turn once you officially enter the village. The road will wind again to the right. The Catholic church will be on your left just before you reach the beach. Take a few minutes to visit the church. It is simple but beautiful. The road just to the right of the church will take you up to the vegetable garden. It is a reasonable hike but well worth the effort. We met the man who owned and maintained the garden. He had come to Ua Pou from Tahiti about a year ago. Prior to that he lived in Papeete, Tahiti for about ten years. He also once owned a sailboat and enjoyed sailing. He decided to settle down in Ua Pou. He met his wife there and began his new life. His garden was chemical free and the soil the richest that I had seen in a long time. He let us pick the vegetables that we wanted to buy. He had lettuce, tomatoes, bell peppers, spring onions, cabbage, green beans (but there were none left), squash (but there were none left). He kept the growing cycles staged such that there was always something ripe and ready to pick. We bought lettuce, tomatoes, onions and one pumpelmouse (like our grapefruit only better). I made my salad immediately upon returning to Mouse Pad and had my own little eating frenzy. What a treat! Not one morsel went to waste. |
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We worked our way back to the village and stopped to talk to the man who had given us the directions to the vegetable garden. He introduced himself as Etienne. We had read about him in the cruising books. He was previously the mayor, the schoolteacher and now the primary Marquisen historian. He was currently working on documenting the Marquisen language. We learned that the alphabet and language is not documented. It is learned through the family and their story telling, etc.. Etienne gave us a loaf of bread and invited us to sign his guest book. We eventually agreed to sign his book later since we were going to be there for a while. |
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NOTE: Comments and suggestions should
be sent to JReese@JRDelta.com
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